Best climbing crags in Britain

By Bethany McAtee

Published on September 13, 2022

6 min read

Top trad and sport climbing spots near you

Britain is home to over 47,000 rock climbing routes that are free to use, from dramatic sea cliffs in Cornwall to the rugged mountains in Snowdonia. Bethany, from the OS Team, shares her best climbing crags in Britain for you to enjoy and explains how to find crags near you.

Rock climbing outside will open up a world of fun, adventure
and challenge, especially if you’ve already learned the basics inside. If you’re new to the sport or wanting to improve your skills before heading outside, then visit your nearest indoor climbing wall to get expert guidance and even meet people to climb with.

Find crags using the places feature on OS Maps

Looking for your first crag to conquer or one for your growing bucket list? Just use the places function on OS Maps (desktop version) and you’ll see all of the rock climbing crags in Britain on one map, including a description and a link to more information about each crag on UKC.

Find crags in OS Maps

Best trad climbing crags

Traditional rock climbing, or ‘trad’ involves placing your
own protection into the rock in order to minimise falling too far. The
protection you will need ranges from gear called ‘nuts’ to ‘cams’ and ‘hexes’. Before
you begin a climb, first choose who will lead the route. The leader will place all
the protection needed into cracks and fissures when they climb up. Then,
whoever is second takes out the gear as they are belayed up after the leader.

Froggatt Edge crag, Peak District

Froggatt Edge crag, Peak District

Good for: Trying trad climbing for the first time

Parking: Bend on B6045 below Grouse Inn/National Trust car park

Grades: TRAD Diff – E2 (Lots of easier routes)

OS paper map: Explorer OL24

Popular with walkers, yet not as busy as the well-known
Stanage Edge crag, Froggatt Edge crag is a great introduction to rock climbing outside.
There are plenty of highly-rated routes with ‘stars’, which are awarded to only the best
climbs. You’ll also be surrounded by the Peak District’s stunning scenery on
the 20-minute walk-in, and again when you reach the top of a climb.

Froggatt Edge in OS Maps

Roaches Upper Tier crag, Peak District

Roaches Upper Tier crag, Peak District

Good for: Crag accommodation (Don Whillans Memorial Hut)

Parking: Long lay-by on the right-hand side of road beneath crag

Grades: TRAD Diff – E7 (Lots of easier routes)

OS paper map: Explorer OL24

Staying the night beneath many rock climbing crags in Britain just isn’t an option, however the Roaches is different. Built into a rocky cliff,
the wonderfully quirky Don Whillans Memorial Hut can be booked for up to 12
people via the BMC. The hut, which looks a little like a castle, is so close to
the rock climbing routes that you can belay from it!

Roaches Upper Tier crag in OS Maps

Little Tryfan crag, Snowdonia

Little Tryfan crag, Snowdonia

Good for: Epic mountain scenery

Parking: Long lay-by on the left-hand side of A5 just after
side road into Gwern Gof Campsite

Grades: Diff – VS

OS paper map: Explorer OL17

Whilst a lot of the routes on Little Tryfan are multi-pitch,
meaning you build a hanging belay, it is very beginner friendly. Feel like a mountaineering
pro with some of Snowdonia’s favourite peaks at every surrounding angle. Simply
turn around and admire Little Tryfan’s popular older sibling, Tryfan, in all
its craggy glory.

Little Tryfan in OS Maps

Bosigran crag, Cornwall

Bosigran crag, Cornwall

Good for: A nearby café with delicious treats

Parking: National Trust car park under old smelting stack

Grades: Diff – E4

OS paper map: Explorer 102

Like many places in Cornwall, you’ll feel like you’re in the Mediterranean at Bosigran crag! Visit on a sunny day and you’ll be climbing above beautiful clear turquoise seas. Unlike some coastal rock climbing crags, Bosigran is high above the waves so there’s no chance of getting wet, or having to abseil in. Don’t forget to visit Rosemergy Cream Teas on your way home for a rewarding scone or slice of cake.

Bosigran crag in OS Maps

Sennen crag, Cornwall

Sennen crag, Cornwall

Good for: Multi-pitch sea cliff climbing

Parking: Public car park in Sennen village

Grades: Diff – E8 (Lots of easy routes spread out across
crags)

OS paper map: Explorer 102

Sennen is usually known as a tourist beach or the
start of a walk to Lands’ End. Peer over the sea cliffs on the coastal path,
however, and you will find the rock climbers. Although the walk in needs a sure
foot for scrambling down over boulders, the belay ledges just above sea height are
wide and easy to navigate between. Most of the routes are multi-pitch, where
you’ll pop out above Sennen to an audience of curious onlookers.

Sennen crag in OS Maps

Haytor crag, Dartmoor

Haytor crag, Dartmoor

Good for: Spotting wild ponies

Parking: Haytor car park

Grades: Mod – E6

OS paper map: Explore OL28

We arrived at Haytor crag to find a wild pony scratching its
backside on our route. Dartmoor’s famous tors are grippy granite rock
formations, originating from molten rock 280 million years ago. Often, they sit
atop hills, meaning views are always stunning and well worth a steeper walk in.
Haytor can get busy with non-climbers admiring the scenery, however there are
multiple rock climbing sections that you can hide away at.

Haytor crag in OS Maps

Subliminal Cliff crag, Swanage

Subliminal Cliff crag, Swanage

Good for: Getting out of your comfort zone

Parking: Paid parking at the Country Park car park

Grades: Diff – E5 (abseil in)

OS paper map: Explorer OL15

Want a bit of an adventure? At Subliminal Cliff crag, the start of your rock climb begins just above the sea after
abseiling down. Make sure you’re in the know about tide times and abseiling technique
to avoid any difficulty. Once on the climb, drown out any thoughts with the
sound of crashing waves only a couple feet below. Although sea cliff climbing
can be a little scary at times, the experience is thrilling and completely unique!

Subliminal Cliff crag in OS Maps

Best sport climbing crags

Sport climbing is very similar to trad climbing. However, instead of protecting yourself with your own gear, there are already bolts drilled into the rock. All you need are 10 or so quick draws and you’ll be set! Each quick draw needs to be clipped into a bolt on one end and clipped into the rope on the other end. When you reach the top of the climb, you need to ‘top out’ (we recommend learning how to do this beforehand). Once you have done that, only then can you be lowered down. Unclip the quickdraws from the rope as there is no gear to collect. Or, leave them in if someone else wants to give the climb a go without leading it.

Gilwern crag, Brecon Beacons

Gilwern crag, Brecon Beacons

Good for: Large, quiet area for beginners

Parking: End of the public road just past activity centre, where tracks lead off to a mast (Post code: NP4 9SS)

Grades: 4-7a+

OS paper map: Explorer OL13

Even on a grey cloudy day, Gilwern does not disappoint. If you’re
new to rock climbing outside, there are plenty of easy routes that aren’t too high. Because there are six areas spread over a kilometre, make sure you pick an
area before you leave the car and use OS Maps to find the correct path. The
Main Wall and Hindu Kush areas have especially nice views over the valley
below.

Gilwern in OS Maps

These crags are some of the finest in Britain and there are plenty more! Head over to the UKC website to find technical details about each crag. You can find public rights of way, car parks, nearby pubs and walking routes to each crag in OS Maps.

Find more crags in OS Maps

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By Bethany McAtee